Them thar hills

It’s certainly not the most romantic destination, but when we decided on Chile instead of Argentina upon leaving Bolivia, I knew just where I wanted to go — Chuquicamata! It’s not everyday that you can just stop by one of the biggest open pit mines in the world. It’s not on the list of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites, but this active mine is a testament to human ingenuity and development.

The volcanic veins of magma which have formed these hills of the Atacama contain copper. American mining companies discovered this here over a hundred years ago. Since then, operations were transferred to the Chilean State, but the mining hasn’t slowed down a bit. Today, a third of Chile’s economy depends on copper.

Mining is a fascinating and somehow horrifying industry. This is a place of absolute superlatives. Trucks larger than in your wildest dreams, moving weights unimaginable to get at a precious metal. Well, in the case of copper not technically precious. This base mental has a current spot per pound of just under US$3. In it’s path, mining leaves behind huge waste and destruction. But we all want our stuff… Christmas lights, phone cords, electronics of all sorts, including whatever device you’re using to read this blog, contains some copper.

Environmentally, the place is a nightmare. A mere one percent of the rock they extract here is actually copper. Some additional gases and minerals are yielded in processing and we were credibly assured that nothing which can be sold goes to waste. The guide admits they haven’t really found a good solution for the dust which results after the rocks are pulverized, and water is a real issue.

Situated in one of the driest deserts in the world, the Atacama, water is a serious problem. Massive amounts are needed to process copper. On the tour, our guide told us that a new law was passed that only allows mines to use sea water for processing (background). Water trucks are everywhere along the highway (don’t even begin to think about the carbon footprint the exhaust of all this is causing…).

They are working to find better solutions, but it seems the mining brings as many challenges as it does solutions. (Interesting article.)

In Chuquicamata, they have set a target to move operations underground to exploit the new finds located below the current pit. The massive trucks will stop burning their diesel at three gallons a minute, and instead conveyors will lift the rocks to the top.

Nevermind the fascinating eyesore the mine creates. Deserts are wonderful, magical places, but this area isn’t particularly beautiful. It’s hot, dry and I imagine if weren’t for the mine, nobody would want to live here. The sandy landscapes we drove through past Calama were mostly interesting because of the mining activity.

No place to put all the leftover rocks, so they just got piled up on the town.

Seems it was Christmastime when they closed up the town.

Saddest playground ever?

Our guide at the now museum. I think it was a library built by the Americans in the town’s beginning.

Map of the now evacuated old town. A lot of it is buried under rocks and sand, the rest they preserve. (Maybe no more copper under it?)

They had a nice collection of old stuff on display. Here about the then super-powerful diesel motor. The current Liebherr has 3,650 caballos (hp).

Thank you, darling!

Our interesting guide. A local guy who actually grew up in the town. He told us all about finding, extracting, concentrating, smelting, refining, selling and transporting copper.

I guess this is a picture from the farewell to the 92 year old town.

The now buried hospital?

Happy Christmas to all, and to all a good night.

Even if the lovely town could make you forget where you are, the landscape always reminds of the mine.

Saddest playground I’ve ever seen.

Christmas Cheer all around the desolate main square.

Main Square Gardner. Are they doing this for us?

Back in the day, this was the entrance to what was one of the most advanced hospitals in the Americas. If they hadn’t found more copper near the town, it might still be there today.