On the road again…

Puerto Aysen – Cerro Castillo

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We had a late start in the morning and got back on the Carretera Austral pretty late therefore. We took it real easy. I still had to get used to the huge car. But driving was very relaxed. This mighty car is not a sports car, the weight and the calm gurgling of the huge engine makes you accelerate very slowly. RPM rarely over 2500, usually at 1500. Cruising is the word!

I am glad we are going so slow: Christy spotted some wildlife next to the road: Huemules (the local deer) stood there calmly and crossed the road right next to us…

The landscape was incredible. Rich vegetation changed with dry and colorful mountains, red cliffs and crystal clear rivers. The road was all paved till the village of Cerro Castillo. The village gets its name from a fantastic mountain that is standing on the side of the road. It really looks like a castillo, a fortress. Dozens of thin rock needles stick up in the air in different sizes. Dark and threatening it is overlooking the broad valley where clouds create a dramatic play with the sun rays. The dark clouds opened up eventually and had the sun shining into the valley which gave everything a more friendly look.

We found a nice little hut where we stayed for the night, outside the little village of Cerro Castillo.

The missing link

Coyhaique – Puyhuapi – Puerto Aysen

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We decided to take the truck north to Puyhuapi, since this part of the Carretera Austral is supposed to be very beautiful and we bypassed it on the Argentinian side. It would also allow us to test whether the bikes are stable on the bike. Since we would go back to Coyhaique we could contact Traeger, the car rental company in case something wouldn’t work.

The road was just incredible beautiful. A broad valley with high mountains left and right. Lots of cows stand on large meadows chewing on wild flowers and the rich green grass. The clouds are pretty low but we can still get fantastic views on the mountains and the glaciers that cover their tops. And the low clowds contribute to a nice atmosphere.

The closer we came to Puyhuapi the steeper mountains became and eventually we hit the fjord that cuts deep into the mountains. We crawl its way along the coast with a steep slope on one side and the sea to the other, with just enough space for a one laned gravel road.

The last bit to Puyhuapi is under construction and it is pretty bad. Rockfall happens here all the time. We are happy to have this massive truck and the good wheels. We take it very easy, make a lot of stops and enjoy the incredible scenery this road has to offer. It winds along a deep fjord with very steep walls to our right and the ocean to our right.

After a night in Puyhuapi we went the same road back. The construction site was closed though for a couple of hours, so we stood there and waited for the road to be re-opened. It poured down and it was quite cold as well. The first time since Christys accident we were really happy not to be on a bike. That would have been really terrible. Instead we chewed some potato chips and watched a TV show on the I-Pad. Overlanding on a 4×4 really has its good sides…

The solution

Coyhaique

After we have checked different options we finally decided to rent a big 4×4 and put the bikes on the back of it. MotoAventura, a Chilean motorbike rental company gave us a contact to a car rental company in Coyhaique. Rolf Traeger has more than 50 cars to rent, rides dirt bikes himself and is the contact person for MotoAventura in case their customers are in trouble.

After we contacted him it became quickly clear why MotoAventura works with him. He is a real trouble-solver. When I told him our problem he immediately came up with a way to do this.

In fact he had to put quite some work into this: his rail to get his own (lightweight dirt-bikes) on the back of the truck snapped due to the weight of our bikes. So they did a lot of welding to make a frame for the bikes and some rails to get the bikes up. They helped me loading the bikes as well, provided straps to fix them. He even put on brand new massive off-road tires on the truck so we would be safe on the bad roads.

It was really fantastic. I felt very well supported and I slowly got the feeling that this solution is actually really good, even though it meant we would not ride through southern Patagonia on our bikes any more.

We can drive the car down to Punta Arenas and just drop it there, or bring it back to Punto Montt. From there we plan to continue on the bikes again. Let’s hope Christy feels good in 3 weeks.

By the way: it is a really cool pick-up truck. Something you would never drive in Europe. But here it is just perfect.

Massive. Huge. Rugged. A little adventure itself.

And when we were standing in the pouring rain at a construction site for 2 hours to wait for the road to be re-opened we noticed the nice things about travelling in a car…

X-mas in the cabin

Coyhaique

We moved from the hostel to a cabin that the hostel is renting out as well.

It was quite luxurios with a nice stove, some sofas, a kitchen and a comfy bedroom.

We relaxed a lot, Christy hang out on the sofa, watching television, reading and doing some research.

We had to find a way to continue with our bikes. Christy couldn’t ride for 6 weeks, so we checked our options.

We also contacted all the people we knew to get some ideas. All were very helpful but at the end there was little they could do. It was X-mas as well, so most people were busy with other things of course.

It was a relaxing 2 weeks we spent here. Sebastian, a traveller from Chile we met in Lima visited us on Christmas.

In our little kitchen we cooked some meals and we used the time to let our mind rests as well. The last few months have been so intensive, that we almost enjoyed doing nothing.

Christy got a nice boot for her foot and some crutches. So she was getting slowly used to walk with them and got more and more mobile.

I had a little walk and a spin on the motorbike to have a look at the surrounding area. It is beautiful…

But most of the time we were simply hanging around our little cabin, had a fire warming the room and relaxed.

This is how we spend 2 weeks here to figure out how we would proceed with our travel…

Snap!

Carretera Austral – Tecka – Rio Mayo – Coyhaique

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I just saw a cloud of dust in front of me. Christys bike slid on the right side. Somehow she managed to be still on the bike. With a little pirouette the bike bounced to the left side and Christy finally crawled away from the bike.

This all happened very quickly right in front of me. It looked painful.

I slammed the brakes and ran to her to see whether she’d be ok…

 

The road led from Rio Mayo in Argentina back into Chile to Coyhaique. We had to make a detour via Argentina as the Carretera Austral was blocked due to a landslide. There were only two options: wait for a few days or make the detour. With the pouring rain we had in Chile the decision was made quickly. We rode across to Argentina, stayed the night in Tecka and went down the paved Ruta 40 till Rio Mayo, where we found a little hotel. From there it would be only going straight west back to Coyhaique in Chile. So this was how we ended up on this road

The road from Rio Mayo was enjoyable, but it was difficult to ride on. I followed Christy and could see how her bike bouncing underneath her quite wildly at times.

But she did well, and looked quite relaxed on the bike. The road consisted of deep gravel with stones as big as my fist. The only way to get through there is either very slow or with some speed. We felt comfortable to go with 60km/h and that turned out to be a good speed. You had to be very concentrated though, since the gravel was soft at times and piled up to deep ruts. We rode this road for 2 hours before the accident happened.

Christy was surprisingly pretty relaxed. Her right foot hurt badly, but after a while sitting on the ground she decided she could go on. I can’t believe how tough she is. We continued on the road for another 60km before we reached the Chilean border. The road got a lot better and we found a nice hostel in Coyhaique where Christy laid down. The foot has swollen quite a bit and she was in pain.

The next day we went to the hospital to make sure nothing has been broken and to get some medicine.

She got an x-ray and the doctor opened the news on the screen very frankly: 2 broken metatarsals (2nd and 3rd). No walking, not to mention riding a bike off-road for min. 6 weeks.

We had to do some re-planning…

 

Into the rain

Chaiten – Futaleufu- La Junta – Palena

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We started out of Chaiten in sunny weather. The paved road followed a valley with spectacular mountains. After 30km the road turned into a very well maintained gravel road and we enjoyed riding quite a lot.

We heared of the town of Futaleufu which was supposed to be real nice. So we turned off the Carretera Austral to ride the 100km up the mountains. A fantastic scenery was the reward for this little detour. The town is known mainly for its class 5 whitewater rafting and so you see a lot of wild rivers along the way.

The town itself was not as enjoyable as we thought, but we were compensated with an incredible sky that was illuminated in the wildest and most intense colors at sunset.

The following day was cloudy and soon after we started on the motorbikes it started raining. And it wouldn’t end that day. We rode down the road we already knew back to the Carretera Austral in pouring rain, it got cold and so we were happy to find a cafe where we could warm up a little bit.

Soon after our break we where stopped by a motorbiker who came the other direction. He told us that the road was blocked and that the only options would be to wait until the landslide was removed or to go around it via Argentina. We stood there in the pouring rain, checking the options and finally decided that waiting wouldn’t be what we wanted to do. So we turned around and rode the road back again.

We found a nice little Bed&Breakfast where we stopped for the night. With a warm oven and a great meal in our stomachs we slowly warmed up.

The following day we would cross the border to Argentina, and again we started in the rain and it would rain until we hit the border. It was miserably cold…

Fjords, ferries and dead trees

Puerto Varas – Hornopiren -Chaiten

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The southern part of Chile consists of high mountains that arise directly from the sea. Many little islands and deep fjords form the outline of the coast. So years ago, the few little villages that exist here were only reachable by boat or little planes that had to curve between the mountains to land on gravel runways.

It had been like this until the 70’s. The dictator Pinochet wanted to strengthen the presence in these areas for strategic reasons and he therefore ordered to build a road here. And so a road, the Carretera Austral now leads to one of the most beautiful places in Chile and therefore we clearly didn’t want to miss it.

The road is mostly a gravel road with lots of pot holes, but it is getting improved constantly and so many parts are paved nicely in the meantime.

It is not really connected to the rest of Chiles road system. You need to take in total 3 ferries to get to the real start of the Carretera Austral.

We took the first ferry, a short crossing of 30 minutes and went south on a good dirt road that brought us to Hornopiren.

The town of Hornopiren is a nice little place. There is a little fish farm, some grocery stores and the little harbor. It is located beautifully at the end of a large fjord. An island separates the fjord into two arms. It was cloudy, we would only get little partial views on the surrounding mountains.

The town has a real pioneer flair. I feel very reminded of the small towns in northern Canada. Simply constructed little houses and a very slow pace. Nobody is in a hurry here. When you stand on the side of one of the few roads cars would stop to see whether you would maybe like to cross the street. Drivers friendly smile and slowly continue when you signal them that you are just standing there to take a picture of the bay.

We found a nice little cabin. It was cozy even though the bathtub was about to crash through the floor and the carpet was full of dirty spots. We stayed there for two nights and just relaxed during the day.

The ferry would leave at noon and so we boarded the bikes and enjoyed the boatrip through fantastic fjords. We were lucky enough to meet the captain who invited us on the bridge and so we had a very special view and a great chat to the captain and his pilot.

The time flew by and after three hours on the ferry we and a whole lot of other local travellers got on a dusty gravel road just to reach another ferry not 20km down the road. The second ferry took only 30 minutes though and so we finally reached the northern part of the Carretera Austral.

This part of the road leads through the Pumalin National Park. This park not only has a fantastic landscape but also an interesting history. Douglas Tompkins, the founder of The North Face has bought large areas here and after some difficulties and skepticism of the locals eventually created this national park.

It is a fantastic area. The road cuts through thick vegetation. Leaves as big as me are next to the road. Gorgeous lakes, rivers and mountains left and right. The road is in good condition and there are many fantastic campsites. We are early in the day though and so we keep on going.

Suddenly an almost shocking change. Riding down a slope we get to what appears a river valley. But the green is gone. All the trees are dead. The riverbed is full of trunks that lay on each other chaotically. This is ground zero of a disaster.

Indeed: 2008 the Chaiten volcano suddenly erupted with little warning. Large areas were destroyed and the town of Chaiten completely vanished.

It is quite impressive to ride the bike through this landscape. But when I said there is no green that is not entirely correct. Mother nature is already coming back and small bushes and plants are starting to heal this scar.

Early in the day we arrive in the new build town of Chaiten. We find a nice restaurant for an early dinner and since the owner also rents rooms we have found our place to stay as well.

Other travellers join us on a beer in the evening and so it is a nice chatty evening with interesting people.

People we met: Pastores Alemanes

I know Padre Eduardo from the last time I was here in Peru. And my Mum knows him from her many visits here in Palca. He is a good friend. He knew my Dad. They both liked and respected each other a lot.

Padre Eduardo and his colleague Padre Luis are taking care of the needs of the people here in Palca. And they do this since many years, as they are both far over 30 years in Peru. And they do it with a dedication that blows your mind.

The high Andes near Tarma

The high Andes near Tarma

The conditions to live in this part of the Andes are harsh. But they visit all the little villages up there in the high Andes. It is difficult to get up there. But people ask them to get a mass and so they go. They go as far as the 4×4 gets them. And then they walk. To the little “Nest” up there as the Padre puts it in German. They sleep in the houses of the poorest of the poorest, because they ask for spiritual succor. Because they ask for help.

Because the spiritual succor the two can offer have a lot higher meaning here in Peru than we can imagine. We have this so very different image of the church in mind that is present in Europe. Here this all means a lot more. This is what religion and church is really about. This is where people like the two padres really make a difference.

The two pastores in Tarma

The two pastores in Palca, Padre Eduardo and Padre Luis

And they are dedicated. Padre Luis tells us his story of when he arrived in this area after he had spent 14 years in one of the most polluted cities worldwide, Cerro de Pasco. He has been working as a priest in different countries already and knew his ways around when things get difficult. So when he was asked in his first month in Palca to hold a mass in one of the little villages up the mountain he didn’t hesitate. Even though it was a long way up, even though it was a difficult rugged road up the hill, even though it was rain season. He jumped into his 4×4 and slowly drove the road up the hill. It became difficult, but he knew how to use the power of the 4-wheel-drive car and made it. After he held the mass, he picked up two young priests in another village and wanted to get down again. In the meantime it got dark, the rain had started and the road turned from a rugged road to a bad slimy and slippery mud pipe. The road went along a steep mountain with a 200m cliff on his right side. Going around a corner there was a landslide. They got out and worked with the shovels on the slide to make it possible to pass. After half an hour he decided to give it a try and got back into the car. He sort of slid through the passage as the tires spun in the mud. Suddenly the back of the car drifted to the right until one of the tires hung over the cliff. They all got out. Continuing was too dangerous, so they called for help. Eventually some people from the next town arrived with a couple of tools and ropes to securely get the priests car off the cliff and back on track.

The priest went to this village the following week and many times during the rain season again.

The slopes are steep and many little towns are very hard to get to, especially during rain season.

The slopes are steep and many little towns are very hard to get to, especially during rain season.

His colleague Padre Eduardo is from South-Tirol. A quite elderly, and wise man with a great sense of humor. He has a million stories to tell about his time here as well. During the main time of the activity of the shining path he was held hostage for a day. When the commander of the group pointed a pistol at his head and asked him to kneel down, he told him he wouldn’t kneel in front of anybody. The terrorist was impressed. They let him go.

Both persons are great and of an impressive coolness when they talk about the difficulties and dangers they had here, especially in the days of the shining path. People around them have been killed and slaughtered. And they were asked whether they would like to stay. All other authorities had left the area. But they stayed.

When Padre Eduardo was asked whether he was afraid he answered in his great humor: “No, tenemos dos pastores alemanes aqui”. (No, we have two german priests here.)

A great wordplay since pastores alemanes has a double meaning: it can mean “german priests” or “German shepard dogs”.

We were deeply impressed by these two old fellows. The braveness, their trust in God, their dedication, their will to help other people, their modesty.

It makes you ask yourself about your own attitude about the world that we live in.

Equipment: The bikes …BMW 650 GS

We both use BMW 650GS. Christy a 2011 G650GS and myself a F 650GS Dakar from 2005.

Our bikes: a 2005 F650GS Dakar (front) and a 2011 G650GS

Our bikes: a 2005 F650GS Dakar (front) and a 2011 G650GS

I rode the F 650 Dakar model for more than 6 years now (earlier a 2003 Dakar model) and I am pretty very happy with this bike.

It is just a “no-drama” bike. It works. Always.

In the following I put down my experience with this bike in case you are considering it as a travel bike.

For travelling this is an excellent choice for a couple of reasons:

  • good engine and comfortable for long rides
  • consumption and range
  • no problem with low octane fuel
  • no problem with high altitude
  • no problem with bad quality gas
  • no engine issues .
  • pretty low (the G650GS that is, not the Dakar!)
  • Offroad capabilities

The downsides:

  • bearing of steering
  • bolts of G650GS (model since 2011)
  • splash guard F650GS (only 2005model)
  • rear mirror (2000-2006 model)
  • stand Dakar (all years)

 Good engine

The engine has enough power for travelling; I never had the feeling that I would need more power. But it has a very good culture, no bad vibrations. The seat is by standard quite comfortable and good for long rides. For offroading it is better to put the handlebar a little bit higher though.

Long stretches no problem

Long stretches no problem

 No Power loss

Even in the high Andes it was enough power, even though of course there is a noticeable power loss on altitudes over 4000m.

Even at elevation over 5000m we never had any issues

Even at elevation over 5000m we never had any issues

Consumption and range

Consumption is sensational: during most of our travel the consumption was as low as 4l/100km (70miles per gallon). On major roads when travelling over 100km/h consumption goes up to approx. 5l/100km.

The Dakar can cover min 400km, the G650GS has only a 14L tank so it covers approx. 350km.

We only had two times (southern Bolivia and southern Argentina) where we needed more than this and we simply bought 2 canisters with 4L each and that covered 500km.

The canisters we simply attached to the passengers footrests with two straps. That worked perfectly fine even with the 500km gravel we covered in southern Bolivia.

No Bad gas issues

We used gas with octanes as low as 80 and we were advised to filter the gas in Bolivia before filling it in our tanks, which we never did. We never had any issues with this though.

No engine issues

I had a 2003 F650 Dakar with 65000km on the clock. My actual bike is a 2005 model with now 35000km and Christys bike has 34000km. We had absolutely no issue with the engine ever.

Height

The G650GS is ok for riders who are not that big. My girlfriend is 1,65m tall and she can handle the bike pretty well. She gets her feet down (not flat though) and she managed to handle the bike in pretty bumpy road condition, even though she was not an experienced rider at the start of this trip.

For shorter persons the bike is perfectly fine. The Dakar version is quite high though, so you should be at least 1,70m or taller.

Christy is 1,65m, learned to ride not a year before the trip and had no issues handling the bike.

Christy is 1,65m, learned to ride not a year before the trip and had no issues handling the bike.

Offroad capabilities

We did some of the hardest routes you can do as a traveller in south america and both bikes had proofed to be good enough. You do NOT need a Dakar version. The G650GS will meet your needs for such a travel.

The Dakar version is good for even some tough terrain, but you most likely do not approach that with heavy travel luggage.

Most important: it is not too heavy. I can get my bike up again after I fell (off road that happens, sooner or later). I would not like to fight with a 300kg monster…

Christy in action on the G650GS.

Christy in action on the G650GS.

 Issues with the bikes:

There are some downsides to the bike though:

Bearing of the steering

Seems to be a problem: I had to change it on both Dakars that I had after long straight stretches. It is nothing that you need to address immediately during the travel though. You have enough time to change it when it appears. So it won’t stop you in your travels, but you might want to check before starting on a longer trip.

Bolts on the G650GS

There has been a quality drop from the 2000-2006 models to the newer G650 (2011 an later) models. We had severe problems with multiple bolts on Christy 2011 bike. Some heads were bad, so that you couldn’t use the standard tools (they were not “damaged” by wrong use of a tool, but the original shape of the Torx was not deep enough, I don’t even understand how they fixed them during assembly).

Other screws (in total 5) had seized up so that we could not open them without damaging the thread. Before you go on a journey with one of the newer models check the bolts. It is a real pain to deal with this during the travels.

Splashguard 2005 model

This is a problem only occurring on the 2005/2006 model of the F 650 Dakar.

They have changed the windshield from the 2003 model so that when it rains, you get all the dirty water splashing up from the front wheel nicely sprayed on your visor. Really fantastic, I don’t know what engineering was thinking here. Anyway I fixed that simply with a piece of a plastic bottle and some tape. Works perfectly fine.

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Rear mirror

I lost both mirrors during my travel on my Dakar. They stick out pretty far and when you fall, the chances are pretty good that you are loosing a mirror. In my case that was a simple fall over of the bike due to heavy wind.

Get them changed for some more offroad compatible ones before you travel, you need the mirror when you hit some lousy traffic as e.g. Lima.

Great replacement for my original mirror. I got it for 3$ . Cheap is best...

Great replacement for my original mirror. I got it for 3$ . Cheap is best…

Stand Dakar

The Dakar stands at an really frightening angle. The stand is simply too short.

With the road being a little bit uneven in the wrong direction the bike simply falls over when heavy loaded. Same happens with soft ground. Wunderlich has a nice add-on part that makes the stand larger so it wouldn’t sink in as much AND is approx. 15mm thick, so the bike stands more upright.

Make sure to glue in the screws as I have lost that handy little part during my trip.

The Dakar stands at an scary angle on the side stand. Good idea to have that improved...

The Dakar stands at an scary angle on the side stand. Good idea to have that improved…

Rear splash guard F-650GS 

The rear splash guard the F650 has attached originally doesn’t last. On both my Dakars it came off eventually, leaving a plastic part flapping around. I just ripped the rest away, just leaving the guard for the chain on the bike. You can do this advance or just let it happen during the travel. It might get caught in the chain or the tire somehow, so i would just take it off in advance.

Before...

Before…

After...

After…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Comparison G650 vs. Dakar version

Both bikes are good for travelling.

The Dakar version offers a better suspension if you want to go high speed offroad. I liked to do that sometimes, but this is nothing that is a necessity for a trip, more a fun thing to do if you know what you are doing.

Other than that: the G650 doesn’t limit you in terms of where you can get it to.

The G650GS has 3L less gas on board. That is no problem, as the only time we needed to enlarge the range was in southern Bolivia and southern Argentina (a 4L canister did the trick). In Ecuador, Peru, Chile you will have absolutely no fuel issue with a range more than 200km.

They are both good bikes for travelling

They are both good bikes for travelling

There are two thoughts that I think might make the G650 even a better bike for South America:

  1. For riders not experienced with sand or deep gravel: a wider front tire helps you in these conditions. You can’t lower air pressure, since you may hit hard rocks, so the 19″wheel of the G650 has an advantage over the 21″wheel of the Dakar due to the wider tire.
  1. The Dakar is higher, and that makes it more vulnerable to side wind. You will hit a lot of wind from the side in South America (along the coast of Peru and of course in Patagonia). I had the feeling that Christy on the G650 was not swerving as badly as I was on the Dakar when we had side wind. That might be because the bike is higher. Another effect on this might be the smaller front wheel of the G650. It is rotating at higher speed and that might stabilize the bike a bit more (I haven’t really calculated that through, so corrections on this thought are highly appreciated).

Lakes and volcanoes

Osorno – Puerto Varas

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Osorno is not a very pleasant town. We only stayed here to get new tires and to get our steering fixed. Motoaventura is a BMW dealer and rents motorbikes as well. They had the spare parts ready, the tires we wanted on stock and they made a good and quick job.

We waited a few hours till everything was done, but the time flew by as a lot of other travellers (most from Argentina) stopped by and so we had a great time there. We were served coffee as well and had a fantastic lunch on a restaurant nearby.

 

We were glad that we did not have to stay another night though as the town has nothing to offer and so we continued to the Lago Llangquihue which is close by. The lake is incredible. It is pretty big and a fantastic snow covered volcano is towering on its eastern side. This whole region has been settled by Germans and they keep their traditions. So you find Bavarian restaurants, coffee shops offering “kuchen”, and a lot of names are German. We had a short stop in the town of Frutillar for a coffee in a theatre built directly at the water. It is a great building and it seems to be a fantastic theatre, offering room for 1600 people. We wondered how this little village would look like when 1600 people arrive there for the evening event.

The town of Puerto Varas has a fantastic view on the volcano as well. We stayed there and made a daytrip to the volcano and some neat waterfalls nearby.

We took advantage of the German influence and enjoyed an “Erdinger Weissbier” in the evening.